For the granny squares we made we used double knitting yarn (DK) and a 4.0mm hook. You can make them with any yarn and the corresponding hook (the yarn label will always have a recommended size hook). 

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Stitches

 yo- yarn over

 ch- chain (yo, pull up a loop through the loop already on hook. One loop left on the hook. You do this action as many times as is instructed until you have the correct number of chains, not including the one on the hook.)

 ss- slip stitch (insert hook in the stitch (st) or chain space (ch-sp) indicated on pattern. Yo and pull a loop through the st or ch-sp and through the loop already on the hook. One loop left on hook.)

 tr- treble crochet (yo (2 loops on hook), insert hook into st or ch-sp, and pull a loop up on to the hook (3 loops on hook), yo and pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook), yo and pull through remaining 2 loops. You should now have one loop left on the hook and a completed treble crochet!)

 ch-sp - chain space (this is a space created by a chain stitch between two other types of stitch. If you look in the picture above you can see the chain spaces most easily on the outside edge where there is a gap between the groups of treble crochets.)

 

To start the square you make a chain of four and join with a slip stitch to create a ring. You will now be working into the centre of this ring rather than the individual chains. 

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Round 1- Ch3 (this counts as tr), 2 tr into the ring, ch2, *3tr into the ring, ch2* Repeat the instructions between ** 2 more times. Join into the top of the first ch3 with a ss, then ss into next 2 tr and ss into ch-sp. (It can be a bit fiddly to do this bit so you may need to wiggle your hook into place a bit for the first ss.)

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Round 2- ch3 (this counts as tr), 2tr, ch2, 3tr into the same space, ch2, *3tr, ch2, 3tr, ch2*. Repeat ** twice more. Join with a ss to the top of initial ch3, ss into next 2 st and ch-sp. 

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Round 3- ch3 (this counts as a tr), 2tr, ch2, 3tr into the same space, ch2, *3tr in next ch-sp, ch2, 3tr, ch2, 3tr into corner ch-sp, ch2*, repeat ** twice more, 3tr, 2ch, join with ss into top of initial ch3, ss into next 2 st and ch-sp.

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Rounds 4-8 continue in such a way so that you work 3tr, ch2, 3tr into each corner and 3tr into each ch-sp of the previous round and there is ch2 between each one. It's actually far simpler to do than it is to write or read! 

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Once you've got a square with 8 rounds, which should measure roughly 20cm (though don't get too hung up on this, everyone has a different tension) you fasten off the yarn. To do this, with one loop remaining on the hook after the last ss, snip the yarn about 5cm from the hook and now pull all the way through the loop. Your square now has two 'ends' which are the bits of yarn left hanging out at the beginning and the end. Using a darning or tapestry needle, weave these in my sewing them into the stitches as invisibly as possible, then snip off the remainder. 

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TA-DAH! A granny square of your very own. As you can see in the photograph above each round there is a different colour. They've done this by fastening off one colour at the end of each round (so you only ss into the top of the ch3, you don't have to worry about ss to get into the ch-sp). They've then started the next round by joining a new colour into the corner space. To do this, make a slip knot of your new colour and draw up through the corner space with your hook. Make sure it's on your hook, loosely enough that you can pull a loop through it. Now ch3 and voila you have already started the next round. But remember, the more colours you have the more ends to weave in later and most yarn crafters will agree that this is the most hated part of what they do!

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Now that you know how, check out the infinite variations on granny square that are out there. Pinterest is brilliant for this, though word of warning, check if the pattern is in UK terms (as above) or US terms. They are subtly different but it makes quite the difference. Most patterns will declare what terminology they use but a rule of thumb is that UK based websites, blogs and books will use UK terminolgy, everyone else uses US! Click here for a handy conversion chart. 

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